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When compiling a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might anticipate well-known award-winning establishments. However, nestled near the top among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu situated in a outlying area of northern London.

An Surprise Accolade

The little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. The accolade has left the family totally shocked.

“I am totally surprised,” states the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s hard graft that led to their humble place securing such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has retained much of its former feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

The Signature Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the fare, and this restaurant definitely delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. Once the savoury mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful burst of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a more intense, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place stuffed for less than £25, comparable tasting menus at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is hospitality, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he were in a position of power, he would “insist to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to find their footing, but this one first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a single mother and she had a life outside work but her friends would visit to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Culture

The restaurant’s success is bound to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader significance of this gastronomic achievement.